Crossing the Semois

The monumental bridge of Dohan

The monumental bridge of Dohan is the first river structure you notice when entering the territory of Bouillon while going downstream along the Semois.The inhabitants of the Semois basin have always needed systems to cross the river in order to reach other villages, deliver goods, or access farmland and forests. In earlier times there were fords, footbridges, wooden bridges, and later, the first stone bridges appeared.

The fords

The fords are now the zones often cursed by kayakers, where one gets stuck between the stones during dry periods.These passages once had economic importance, but also played a strategic role during many wars.That is why a ford was often well guarded.Remains of redoubts (fortified positions) overlooking such crossing zones are proof of this.A clear example is the ruin of the redoubt built under Louis XIV, located on a steep hill in Frahan, at the confluence of the Bonru stream and the Semois.

The Gué de Loquet, below Botassart, also played an important role.A commemorative plaque provides an overview of the various crossings that took place there. As for an “invasion” in 2013, a date added to the list by a prankster, no one knows anything about it.Perhaps the youth movements that camp there in the summer had something to do with it?

Long before the bridge of Dohan was built, people crossed the Semois at the Gué de Voie d’Yvois, located a bit further downstream.The Voie d’Yvois was an important route, and this ford offered an alternative for those who wanted to avoid passing through Bouillon.For a time, soldiers guarded this strategic place and also collected tolls. It is not surprising that a castle was located nearby, likely built upon the foundations of a former fortified site.From this location, one had an excellent view of this important crossing point.

The first bridges

Step by step, the Semois was equipped with solid river crossings.The wooden Pont de Liège was built in 1069 as the first bridge of Bouillon. In 1618, Vauban created a more durable version.The stone Pont de France was constructed in 1851.Later came the bridges of Poupehan, Dohan, and the Pont de Cordemois in Bouillon.

Because of their strategic importance, all these bridges were destroyed during wartime.For example, on 11 May 1940, the French troops themselves blew up the three bridges in the town to prevent the Germans from advancing into France.

The bridge of Dohan, which once had princely allure, was over the years rebuilt, restored, or replaced by a temporary bridge several times.The Count and Countess of Flanders, parents of the future King Albert I, owned the Château des Amerois in Dohan during the second half of the 19th century.Their children used to walk and play there in the wooded surroundings.

The story goes that when the Countess once organized a picnic in Dohan on the banks of the Semois, the young Albert made a drawing of a bridge over the river.Whether this design was fully followed is uncertain, but an old postcard bearing the words “dessiné par le Prince Albert” seems to suggest it.

The Countess supported the construction and probably contributed financially, since it improved the accessibility of the Amerois estate. In 1890, this magnificent river structure was completed.

Pont Cordemois

Before the construction of the Pont de Cordemois, one could reach the other side of the Semois only by means of a “barque”, a small ferry boat operated by the ferryman (le passeur).This ferryman lived in the nearby building La Poulie, which was formerly a gatehouse of the fortified town.

Later, the building also served as the concierge’s residence of the slaughterhouse, then as the home of the tennis club, and since 1998, it has been the meeting place of the local Centre Culture et Loisirs.

Next to La Poulie, a beautifully restored barque makes passers-by dream of days long gone.On this boat are painted two images inspired by pen drawings by Pierre Clouet (1920–1991), a local artist also known as Pierrot.

Because Bouillon is proud of its versatile Pierrot, the Pierre Clouet Exhibition Hall on the upper floor of the tennis clubhouse, located 100 meters away in the Bastion, is dedicated to this local artist. It is wonderful to see how, around the Boulevard Vauban, sport and culture pass the ball to each other.

From Bouillon, the hamlet of Cordemois, located on the opposite side of the Semois, could therefore only be reached by ferry for a long time.Until 1930, when, at the request of the Abbey of Orval, a bridge — the Pont de Cordemois — was built so that the new abbey would be connected to the town.This bridge was designed by Henri Vaes, who chose a regional style and used the typical Ardennes slate stones in the side walls.

The sublime surroundings of this romantic bridge have inspired countless artists over the years.The people of Bouillon themselves are deeply attached to their Pont de Cordemois.

The footbridge at Moulin de l’Épine

In earlier times, when there were no bridges, anyone wishing to cross the river had better not be afraid of cold water.Nowadays, however, it is fear of heights that might hold people back.

The adventurous river crossing (through the ford or by ferry boat) at Moulin de l’Épine was replaced in 2020 by a modern tourist attraction: a suspension footbridge over the Semois, called the Passerelle “Au moulin de l’Épine”.

The Province of Luxembourg had this impressive 55-meter-long footbridge designed in 2015, and it was later built by a regional company from Bastogne.

The materials used ensure a beautiful integration into the surrounding natural landscape. On Instagram, this bridge is gradually following in the footsteps of its larger German counterpart, the Geierlay suspension bridge.

One thing is certain: with this footbridge, the site has gained a new, contemporary tourist asset.